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This is only to say that death was always in front of them, and they charged regardless, living their lives to what they deemed the fullest.
He’d been trying to rally other surfers to ride the place for two or three winters; Buzzy Trent called him the “Pied Piper of Waimea,” and said all those who followed Noll would “drown like rats” if they paddled out.
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Wev'e made progress, but there's still a long, long way to go." When Kennedy released his report in May, the study identified 78 known surface sites of interest (see map) - more than double the number found by the most comprehensive previous review, which was conducted by Bishop Museum in 1974.